The Wine Observer

The Pleasures of Warm Weather Wines

A refreshing break from the routine.

By Paul M. Karpecki, OD

When we think of the summer we think about the heat, picnics, sunshine, grilling, swimming, pool time, golf, etc. In those light and airy circumstances, a big red heavy wine just doesn't seem appropriate. So if you are out on the patio, swinging in a hammock or just relaxing with friends, this month's column will find you the best warm weather wines to enjoy. We'll start with some of the best white wines and then follow with some reds — especially for those red-only wine lovers.

Sauvignon Blanc

This wine is grown all over the world, although it is most famously known as a wine from the Loire Valley of France where the wines take on an almost grassy character — it reminds you of the summer and mowing of the lawn. But perhaps some of the best summer sauvignon blancs are grown in New Zealand, South Africa, California and Chile.

New Zealand's Marlborough region in particular creates a wonderful wine of this varietal with typical notes of grapefruit, citrus and tropical fruit. Some of my favorites include Cloudy Bay, Kim Crawford, Craggy Range (although this one is from Martinborough, NZ). Stateside, I like Cakebread and Benzinger.

Pinot Gris

The pinot gris grape is actually rose-colored but the inside fruit is more of a grayish-blue color, and that is likely were the name gris (the French word for gray) comes from. In Italy, it is called pinot grigio; in Germany, the name is ruländer.

If you like pinot noir, you are likely to enjoy pinot gris. Although pinot gris is a white wine, it may also be another option for chardonnay fans seeking something new. And because chardonnays can sometimes be heavy — especially the occasionally over-oaked American style — this would be a much better summer substitute.

Look for pinot gris from Oregon like King Estate, Acrobat, Eyrie Vineyards, Oak Knoll and Sokol Blosser. From Alsace, France, consider Zind-Humbrech or Trimbach for starters. The Okanagan Valley of British Columbia is making terrific pinot gris wines. This wine is known for its floral nose and fruits such as pears, apples and apricots. How perfect for a warm summer day.

Albarino

This wine from Spain has all the great, clean characteristics of a sauvignon blanc but adds in some extra depth of character. It tends to be a very clean, acidic wine, so it also goes well with foods — especially something you'd put out on the deck for company prior to a meal.

Albarino is grown in the Rias Baixas region in Galicia, Spain (and in Portugal, where it is called vinho verde). There is no need for me to list a specific winemaker — just look for wines from the Rias Baixas region.

I think what makes this such a terrific summer sipping wine is its distinctive aroma of apricots or peaches. It's also a light wine but with some structure to it, courtesy of the grape's thick skins. For me, that seems to be a thirst quencher — a great characteristic of a summer wine.

Dry Rosé

As a reminder, we're not talking about sweet pink wines like white zinfandel, which can look similar but are sweet and simple, but rather dry rosé wines typically from Spain and southern France, and now even California. These are true gems and highly underrated in the US — perhaps because they are confused with the sweeter versions — making these dry rosé's one of the best summer bargain's available.

A dry rosé embodies the summer: It is meant to be chilled like a white wine, and for that reason it is refreshing; it is dry (not sweet), so it quenches the thirst; and it is light but has substance, so it can be enjoyed in the spring, summer and even early fall because of this complexity. The notes are typically wild raspberries, strawberries and wildflowers, although the taste is often that of peaches, red berries and even tropical fruit or citrus.

Pinot Noir

When I talk to red wine-only lovers, I try to make a case that pinot gris carries an almost exact same genetic code as pinot noir, that dry rosés are made from grapes such as pinot noir and cabernet franc, which are red grapes, but often to no avail.

So if you have to enjoy a red wine in the summer, go with a pinot noir as it is the most versatile of the reds and would work for a summer wine. Pinot noir is a softer wine because it is light in tannins. It is often described as a “finesse” wine rather than a full-bodied wine. Even its color is much lighter than other wines. When you feel it in your mouth, it seems lighter but still has massive flavor. The only problem is that pinot noirs are typically either wonderful or terrible — rarely in the middle. Typical flavors and aromas are raspberry, strawberry, and red and black cherries. Not bad for a summer wine!

Barbera

A great Italian red wine that has the same grape name as the region (which is a rare occurrence in Europe), barbera makes a wonderful summer wine. Certainly barberas can be complex, but they are lighter in general compared to other wines that hail from Pied - monte such as barolo or barbaresco, which are some of my favorite winter or big meal wines.

Barbera is a delicious wine with low tannins and high acidity — a nice combination in the summer. It still has a deep color that can be nice for red wine lovers, and it usually has aromas of raspberries, cherries, strawberries and even blueberries or dried fruits at times. Some great winemakers include Prunotto, La Spinetta, Giacomo, Conterno Fantino and Vietti.

Barbecue Wines

In the summer, I can't help but think of grilling and the best red wines to go with grilled food in my mind — especially meats that might benefit from barbecue sauce — are red zinfandel and shiraz. I find that both of these wines can at times be very jammy and that can enhance the barbecue flavors.

Zinfandel from California and shiraz from Australia are two options that can rarely miss with a good grilled meal.

Summertime Sippers

So there we have it — some of the most enjoyable wines of the summer season. Make it a point to take time to enjoy friends, family, the warm weather and perhaps a bottle or two of some of these wonderful summer sippers. OM