The Wine Observer

Merlot: An Underrated Chameleon

A refreshing break from the routine.

By Paul Karpecki, OD

Merlot is either loved or hated by many wine aficionados, and perhaps there is good reason. When the movie Sideways came out, one of the lead characters gave a memorably negative assessment of merlot, and it has been wine's red-headed (and hued) stepchild ever since. Although perhaps warranted depending on the wines the characters were tasting on their trip, as a general statement on merlot it's not valid. In fact, one of the greatest and most expensive wines in the world, Chteau Pétrus, is almost 100% merlot. But there are good reasons many people don't like merlot, and equally good reasons why others find it to be their favorite. Understanding the grape will help uncover the reasons.

The Origins of Merlot

The name merlot comes from the French word for young blackbird. Perhaps the name originated because of the color of the grapes being very dark and a little smaller. Like cabernet sauvignon, merlot's origins can be traced back to the Bordeaux region of France, where it is typically used as a grape for blending, although it can also be a single varietal, as we most often see in the US. This grape is widely planted throughout the world (the third most commonly planted grape variety) and—this may surprise many who sympathize with the Sideways characters—it's the number one planted grape in all of France! In Bordeaux, it is known for being the primary grape for wineries located on the right bank of the Gironde river.

The two most famous and wonderful regions are Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. Besides Bordeaux, some of the best regions for this wine include California's Napa Valley, Monterey and Sonoma, Italy's Tuscany and Friuli regions, plus areas of Washington state and Chile. But either as a primary grape or a secondary grape in a Bordeaux blend, it adds a softness to the more austere cabernet sauvignon.

The small size and dark, almost black color of the grape likely inspired merlot's name—French for “young blackbird.” �JENNIFER WALZ/FOTOLIA.COM

Development of Merlot And Its Unique Character

What makes merlot unique is that it tends to flower early in the season compared to other grapes. This is an advantage in creating its unique characteristic flavor and texture, but also puts it at risk for a late frost. In fact, some wineries on the right bank of Bordeaux have been unable to harvest enough grapes to make wine for a year or more because of a frost in late spring.

Merlot also ripens sooner, which might explain its more fruity and “fleshy” character and softness. That softness is also a consequence of the thinness of the merlot grape's skin—thinner than, say, a cabernet sauvignon. It's the skins that impart the tannins that give a wine its firmness. In fact, this softness might be what makes merlot such a great grape for blending, as it can balance the more tannic grapes such as cabernet sauvignon. But because of this capability, it also gives much leeway to the wine-maker even for vintages that use merlot as a single varietal.

If the grapes are harvested a little earlier, more acidity remains in the wine, giving it more texture, balance and the ability to age. If picked later, it will carry more fruit and be a softer textured wine. Perhaps the acerbic character in Sideways may not have liked the latter, which is more common in California, but selecting a merlot from a winemaker who prefers an early harvest, or selecting a wine where merlot is blended with other grapes, would have been wiser than simply dismissing the entire wine class.

The Characteristic Flavors of Merlot

Merlot is a bit of a chameleon in that it actually has many potential flavors and textures based on when the grapes are harvested, the location and the wine-making process. If harvested later in the season and in warmer areas, the result is soft, smooth and fruity, with plum flavors. Early harvests and cooler climates tend toward more blackberry, blueberry and black cherry flavors with some tannin presence. In regions such as Napa, some areas of Sonoma and especially Pomerol, France, merlot grapes can create wines that have tannins similar to that of cabernet sauvignon—firm, structured and big. Something unique to merlot is that one of the more commonly mentioned notes associated with this wine is floral or herbal aromas, and flavors such as green or black tea.

Some favorite merlot winemakers in California include Duckhorn and Pride Mountain. I especially enjoy wines from Saint-Émilion, where 60% of the wine is typically merlot. In the Pomerol region, even higher amounts of merlot are used.

One of the great things about merlot is its ability to pair with food. But keep in mind that cheeses—especially flavorful ones—usually don't pair well with merlot. Also stay away from any spicy foods. Aside from that, you'll have to know if you have a soft, smooth, fruity merlot or a more brawny, tannic style. The more typically soft and fruity merlots seem to follow a pairing similar to that of a pinot noir: salmon, chicken, duck and mushroom dishes. The very light and less acidic merlots go well with scallops and shrimp. The big, structured merlots (Duckhorn, Pride Mountain, some Sonoma wines, and then those from Pomerol and St. Emilion) are best served with grilled meats such as a filet mignon. In fact, I think that a structured merlot goes better with filet mignon than a cabernet sauvignon, whereas a NY or KC strip or rib-eye may go better with the cabernet sauvignon.

Sideways and Back Again

Although chastised in movies, merlot can actually be one of the best wines in the world, if one knows the merlot they are drinking. It is blended within practically all of the greatest wines in Bordeaux and, depending on your preference of style, makes a varietal that can range from smooth and fruity to austere and tannic. But it's this versatility that makes it a wonderful wine; if you know your palate and the type of wines you prefer, you can easily select a merlot you'll enjoy, or can refrain from types you know from experience don't suit you.

Few varietal wines give you that much leeway. In fact, I think it has allowed many novice wine drinkers to develop a palate for wines in earlier years and at the same time allowed avid collectors to cellar some of the most powerful wines of all time. So the next time you hear someone complaining about merlot and wanting a presumably more sophisticated wine, inform them that this wine has much more depth than they realize. Suggest not a different varietal but rather the opposite style of the exact same wine. Merlot may yet surprise them—and you too. OM