The Wine Observer

Cabernet Sauvignon: A Class of its Own

A refreshing break from the routine

By Paul Karpecki, OD

Cabernet sauvignon is one of the world's most recognized wine varieties. It is often described as the “iron fist in a velvet glove” because it has a strength or backbone that is distinct and firm, and yet carries a smoothness or velvety texture that leaves a lasting memory.

Origins and Development

Its origins can be traced back to the Bordeaux region of France, where it is typically blended with other varietals such as merlot and cabernet franc. Yet cabernet sauvignon is cultivated around the world, and creates exceptional wines in almost every region.

In Bordeaux, both the right and left banks of the Gironde river produce cabernet sauvignon. Interestingly, wines from the left bank are primarily made with cabernet sauvignon grapes and those from the right bank are primarily made from merlot grapes. Whether used as a primary grape or a secondary grape in a Bordeaux blend, it adds the structure and characteristics that make Bordeaux blends exceptional. Structure in cabernet sauvignon comes from the tannins, which are astringent compounds imparted into a wine from the grape skins and seeds while the juice is extracted. The combination of the tannic structure with huge amounts of red fruit flavors make it an exceptional wine varietal.

Surprisingly, this varietal is relatively new and was developed by combining the cabernet franc vine with sauvignon blanc vines. And although it began in France, it has widespread planting throughout the world. Part of the reason for this is that, unlike pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon is a hearty, thick-skinned grape that is relatively resistant to various temperatures and even frost. These thick skins impart the tannins. Another reason for its widespread planting is that it has very characteristic or familiar flavors.

“Rutherford Dust” and Other Great Cabernets of the World

One of the best US regions for cabernet is Napa Valley, although Sonoma and Walla Walla, Wash. can create incredible cabernet sauvignons as well.

There is a term called “Rutherford dust” that implies that the terroir (the earth or dust, the weather, the slope or valley, the microclimate, etc.) contribute to making the wine so special. The soils of Rutherford and Oakville in Napa are unique alluvial or loose/ gravelly soil; this may provide an exceptional hydration level. In fact, the area of Graves (translation: “gravel”) in Bordeaux also produces some of the best cabernet sauvignon in the world.

However, the vineyards of Coonawarra, Australia also produce incredible cabernets—and yet their soil is described as terra rosa (“red soil”). Another favorite region of mine is the Maipo Valley in Chile, and a truly exceptional region for this grape is Tuscany, Italy where these wines are known as the “Super Tuscans.” They are essentially cabernet sauvignon or Bordeaux blends, which created controversy since these grapes were not part of the original DOCG of Italy (the approved grape list where the best grapes for each region are noted, such as nebbiollo in Barolo or sangiovese in Chianti).

Some of the great Super Tuscan wines are Sassicaia and Tignanello.

Characteristic Flavors

The typical aromas and flavors of a cabernet sauvignon include black-currant and herbaceous notes such as eucalyptus or even mint. The wine is typically known for its tannic structure (which softens over time) and its smooth finish. Because this is such a powerful wine, it is meant to be paired with equally rich protein-based foods. Younger cabernet wines have more tannins, so they generally match up best with foods like steak and lamb that can help neutralize the tannins.

As this wine ages, such as an older Bordeaux, the tannins soften and the wine mellows. And although it can still match up with a great filet mignon, it does very well with mushroom dishes (Bordeaux also tends to have earthy notes that allow it to pair well with mushrooms). Cabernet sauvignon also pairs well with dark chocolate (but not milk chocolate) and hard cheeses such as an aged cheddar, brie or a triple cream.

World Class Wine

Cabernet sauvignon is one of the greatest varietals in the world. It's responsible for being the main grape of the first growths of Bordeaux, including Chateau Latour, Chateau Mouton, Chateau Margaux, Haut Brion and Chateau Lafite, as well as some great US wines such as Insignia, Quintessa, Caymus and Screaming Eagle. It also produces the Super Tuscans, the great wines of Sonoma and Washington as well as incredible wines of Australia and Chile. It's often the perfect example of a firm or structured wine with berry notes and velvety softness. It encompasses so much of what a great wine is meant to be: an iron fist in a velvet glove. OM