The Wine Observer

Syrah: A Big, Bold Red for the Winter

A refreshing break from the routine.

By Paul Karpecki, OD

In the winter, the big red wines just seem to taste better. Syrah, or shiraz as it's called in Australia, is almost like comfort food — flavorful and mouth-filling. Those qualities plus its dark fruit and spice flavors make these some of the most popular wines in the world, especially at this time of year. When I think of a classic winter wine, syrah is one of the first that comes to mind.

The typical aromas and flavors of syrah include plum, blackberry and most notably a pepper spice finish. The grape makes a terrific food wine and pairs especially well with comfort foods such as braised ribs, numerous meats, barbecue, rich beef stews and mushroom dishes.

The Origins of Syrah

Syrah's origins can be traced to the northern Rhone region of France, and in this region the boldest wines hail from Hermitage. It's a rare treat to enjoy a Hermitage wine, one you'll not soon forget. Recall that in France, Italy and other old-world countries, the region rather than grape is listed on the bottle. Hermitage wines are 100% syrah.

Other great northern Rhone regions for these powerhouse wines include Côte-Rôtie, St. Joseph and Cornas. The wines produced in each primarily use syrah grapes. Some of the best producers include E. Guigal, La Turque, La Mouline, JL Chave and Jaboulet, although many of these can be expensive. To find better values, look to regions like St. Joseph, Cornas and even Crozes-Hermitage.

In the southern Rhone Valley, syrah is typically blended with grapes such as grenache, mourvedre, cinsault and others. In fact, grenache is typically the primary grape, with syrah taking a supporting role. Perhaps the most famous region is Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which is translated as “the castle of the Pope.” Wines in this region are predominantly grenache but can have up to 13 different varieties of grapes.

The history of Chateauneuf-du-Pape dates to the early 1300s, when Pope Clement V relocated the papacy to the beautiful city of Avignon. He and many popes from that time were known to have enjoyed fine wines. Recognizing the quality of wines from the Rhone Valley, the church set up a papacy in that area. The next pope in line, John XXII, not only enjoyed wine but was said to have contributed greatly to the viticultural practices of the southern Rhone. It was he who erected the famous castle that stands in the heart of the viticulture area — hence the name Chateauneuf-du-Pape!

Other great southern Rhone regions where you can taste wonderful grenache/syrah wines include Gigondas and Côtes du Rhône. Some great producers include the aforementioned Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Perrin from Beaucastel, Vieux Télégraphe, Roger Sabon and Chateau la Nerthe. Great wines from Gigondas include Domaine du Cayron, Brusset and Saint Cosme among many.

Down Under

The name “shiraz” comes from Australia, but it is the same syrah grape as used elsewhere. Some believe that was simply the way Australians pronounced the name, but others claim the grape might have originated in the city of Shiraz in Iran before making its way to the Rhone Valley of France. Either way, just remember that both syrah and shiraz are the same varietal but named differently depending on where the grape is from.

Shiraz came to Australia in the mid-1800s by a Scotsman named John Busby, who is known as the “father of Australian viticulture.” He was responsible for collecting cuttings from French and Spanish grape vines during a trip to Europe and planting them in Australia's Hunter Valley. And it is Australia that has popularized the syrah/shiraz grape, making it among the 10 most commonly produced wines in the world.

Some of the best regions for Australian shiraz include Victoria, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, Clare Valley, the Hunter Valley and the Barossa Valley. All of these regions make wonderfully lush, rich shiraz wines with classic syrah flavor and structure but unique nuances for each region. Some names to consider include Peter Lehmann, Yalumba, D'Arenberg — all reasonably priced — and the famous but more pricey Penfolds Grange or Penfolds RWT (stands for “red wine trial”) as well as Elderton Command, Rosemount's Hill of Grace and Clarendon Hills.

A Warm Welcome

These powerful and tasty syrah wines are well worth a try for their lush feel, great blackberry or plum fruit and pepper spices as well as being flavorful, full-bodied wines. They have the capacity to warm up your winter no matter how cold the days and nights may be! OM