The Wine Observer

Dry Rosé: For Summer's Closing Days

A refreshing break from the routine.

By Paul Karpecki, OD

As the warm weather draws to a close and we enter fall's beauty and the time of grape harvest, excitement fills the air around wineries as the vintners anticipate the ideal time to pick their grapes. For wine drinkers, it marks the end of summer, and there is perhaps no better wine to celebrate the summer than a dry rosé.

This wine is meant to be chilled like a white, and for that reason it is refreshing. Its dryness quenches the thirst, and it is light but has substance, so it can be enjoyed on those final hot days of the year. It typically smells like wild raspberries, strawberries and wild-flowers, although the taste is often that of peaches, red berries and even tropical fruit or citrus. What could be better to send off the summer?

Now, we're not talking about sweet pink wines (also called “blush wines”) like white zinfandel, which can look similar, but rather dry rosé wines typically from Spain or France. These are true gems and highly under rated in the US, perhaps because they are confused with the sweeter versions, which are not held in high regard. Many US consumers would be surprised to learn that sales of rosé wines in France have now exceeded white wine sales.* Fortunately, these wines are not as well known in the US, so they are still a bargain (about $10-$18 per bottle), but they will impress your friends — especially those who prefer white wines, because rosés tend to be a more flavorful white wine per se.

The term rosé denotes that this wine is neither white nor red, though it shares some qualities with them both. The wine is made from crushed red-skinned grapes, but the skins are allowed to stay in contact with the juice for only a short period of time. This imparts color and potentially some mild tannin that is typically very faint and barely perceptible, making rosé wines more similar to a white than a red wine in that sense. These wines usually show a light reddish color but can range from pale pink to even orange or purple hues, depending on the winemaker's style.

Regions and Vineyards

The two countries that have made rosés famous are France and Spain. For the most delightful ones, look to Spain's Rioja and Navarra regions, and French vineyards that hail from Provence, Languedoc, the Rhone Valley Anjou in the Loire Valley, or Tavel.

In Spain, the grape typically used is the garnacha (also known as the grenache grape in France and other parts of the world) and the wine is called a rosado. In some cases, monastrell grapes are also used. My favorite rosado from Spain is Bodegas Muga in Rioja.

In France, the grapes typically used are grenache, syrah, carignan or cincault. Some great ones to try include Combieres rosé from the region of Languedoc, Domaine de Fenouillet and Domaine de Trienne in the Provence region, Jaboulet Parallele 45 Rosé and Balandran in the Rhone Valley, Domaine Lucien Crochet in the Loire Valley, and vineyards from Tavel in Southern France such as Maison Bouachon “La Rouviere,” Guigal Rosé and Chateau de Segries.

Other regions that make good rosés include the Piedmont region of Italy, where the Cortese grape is typically involved; fine examples include La Scolca or Tommasi Chiaretto.

California and Australian wine-makers are also starting to produce more dry rosé wines — in fact, production has increased nearly 50% in the last five years as the US consumer has become more savvy about their wine knowledge. A variety of grapes are used in the US, ranging from the typical syrah and grenache to varietals such as merlot and sangiovese.

Pairing this Wine

First, remember to serve these wines chilled. Dry rosés have a little extra complexity compared to most white wines, but without oak, and that allows for exceptional food pairing. Consider serving these wines with potato or macaroni salads, deviled eggs and sandwiches, cold cuts or practically anything you'd bring to a picnic. These wines are especially nice with grilled foods, including grilled fish, chicken, pork or vegetables.

So in celebration of a wonderful summer, consider one last alfresco cookout and involve a dry rosé in your salutations! OM