The Wine Observer

The Many Moods of Pinot Gris

A refreshing break from the routine

By Paul Karpecki, OD

Since we started featuring varieties of Vitis vinifera grapes with pinot noir last month, it's only fitting that we next cover a clone or family member known as pinot gris. With the warm months now upon us, it's time to put away some of the heavy red wines like Rhone reds, big Barolos and Bordeauxs and start looking at wines that are more of a summer style — and few are better than pinot gris.

Although the pinot gris grape is rose colored, the inside fruit is more of a grayish-blue color, and that is likely were the name gris comes from (French for gray). It's called pinot grigio in Italy and Ruländer in Germany.

If you like pinot noir, you are likely to enjoy pinot gris even though it is a white wine; it may be another option for chardonnay fans. Researchers at UC Davis found the DNA between pinot noir and pinot gris is so similar that they essentially differ only in color. It is believed that pinot gris is derived from a mutation of pinot noir many centuries ago.

The first region to produce pinot gris was actually Burgundy, France. However, the Alsace region of France is probably best known for these wonderful wines. In fact, pinot gris is one of the most common grapes grown in Alsace. But I have to tell you that the pinot gris from Alsace is extremely different from pinot gris elsewhere, although I have thoroughly enjoyed the Alsatian style as well as those from Oregon, Australia and Germany. Italy also produces pinot grigio; try to look for the region of Trentino-Alto Adige in the Italian versions.

Pinot gris is considered one of the noble grapes of Alsace and can be made into the varietal often labeled as Alsace Grand Cru but also a sweet wine known as pinot gris vendange tardive, in which the grapes are harvested late and the sugar concentration is therefore higher.

Perhaps more than any other, pinot gris wines vary significantly based on region and the winemaker's style. Color can range from almost clear as in an Italian to even a pink or copper color as you might find in Oregon or British Columbia. In general, pinot gris tends to be very floral, which is nice for a summer evening wine. Those from Oregon, Alsace or Germany tend to be medium bodied, whereas those from Italy or California will be light bodied and crisper in flavor. Being a very floral wine, you will often pick up notes of honeysuckle or rose water. The taste of a great Oregon pinot gris may include pear, apple and melon (Firesteed, St. Innocent or Kings Estate) and from Alsace it will have a spiciness to it.

One of the tricky things about pinot gris or pinot grigio is that if you don't know the best areas of the world from which to buy it, you may get a very simple wine. Some regions to try that I prefer include Alsace France (Domaine Schlumberger, Trimbach, Zind Humbrecht, Hugel), the Willamette Valley of Oregon (Firesteed, Eyrie Vineyards, Kings Estate, Benton Lane), Adelaide Hills, Orange and the Yarra Valley of Australia (Yalumba, Red Hill Estate, Adelaide Hills) and New Zealand (Cloudy Bay). In Australia and New Zealand, the wine can be called pinot grigio, similar to Italy's wines, but is also sometimes known as pinot gris. Australia's varieties of this wine range from lighter versions much like Italy's to more complex ones comparable to those you would find in Germany, Alsace and Oregon.

Pairing This Wine

One of the great things about pinot gris is that it pairs better with food than almost any other wine. Some describe pinot gris as a wine that is not sure if it is white or red, and I believe that complexity separates it from other white wines when it comes to food pairing. When I think of the regions where pinot gris is best made, such as Oregon, it makes sense that it would pair nicely with salmon, but actually works well with almost any fish! It is also wonderful with clam linguini or any seafood or white sauce with pasta and with salads. Surprisingly, it also seems to pair nicely with spicy foods, a trait uncommon for most wines but uniquely suited to pinot gris.

Even though pinot gris has been around for centuries, it is only now becoming a rising star. A favorite of mine for decades, it is well deserving of its recent recognition. OM