The Wine Observer

Around the World With Sauvignon Blanc

A refreshing break from the routine

By Paul Karpecki, OD

In keeping with our theme of featuring one varietal each month, a focus on sauvignon blanc is a natural fit now that we're entering one of the warmest months of the year. This wine originates from Bordeaux, France and, as the name suggests, it is a white.

Though sauvignon blanc is grown all over the world, it is most famously known as a wine from the Loire Valley of France, used in white Bordeaux and in perhaps the most famous sweet wines from Sauternes and Barsac. Today, sauvignon blanc also grows well in New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, California and Chile.

Globe Trotting

Because this grape is now grown all around the world, its flavor can vary depending on the location. However, in all cases, sauvignon blanc is known for its clean and crisp taste. Perhaps the most well-known region of France where this grape is not blended is Sancerre, as well as nearby Pouilly-Fume, both in the Loire Valley. Wines from Europe are named after the region, not the grape, hence it would be labeled “Sancerre.” Wines from Sancerre are 100% sauvignon blanc and will typically have a green or grassy character that is also described as gooseberry, for those who know the bouquet of a gooseberry.

The word “fume” in Pouilly-Fume means “smoke” and, as such, these wines typically have a flinty mineral taste associated. However, if grown in New Zealand, this wine will take on a tropical fruit character with citrus notes such as grapefruit. When originating from Bordeaux, and in particular the Graves region, sauvignon blanc is typically blended with other grapes such as semillon (to make a white Bordeaux). One unique trait specific to this region is that the grapes are often aged in oak barrels, whereas sauvignon blanc from any other part of the world is not.

Another unique characteristic: a Graves Sauvignon blanc blended wine improves with cellar aging whereas all other sauvignon blanc wines are meant to be consumed within three years of production.

Finally, sauvignon blanc is also used in one of the most famous wines in the world: the dessert wines from Sauternes, France. In this case, the sauvignon blanc grape is once again blended with sémillon, and sometimes the muscadelle grape. In this unique wine, the grapes are left to ripen on the vine for an extended period such that a fungus called Botrytis cinerea forms on them. This allows the juices to concentrate, resulting in a very distinctive sweet dessert wine. The most recognized Sauterne in the world is Chateau d'Yquem and is classified as the “great first growth,” even above the first growths of Bordeaux such as the prestigious Latour or Lafite-Rothschild.

Normally, I make suggestions as to wines to taste from various regions; this time I'll be broader in my recommendations. From New Zealand, I would suggest almost any sauvignon blanc from the Marlborough region. From the Loire Valley, I would try a Sancerre wine. California wineries sometimes call these wines “Fume-blanc” rather than sauvignon blanc, but are the same wine. From California, I would try Cakebread or Chalk Hill, which are full of zip but also have nice melon tropical fruit notes.

Pairing This Wine

One of the great things about sauvignon blanc is its ability to pair so nicely with food and cheese.

Sauvignon blanc, from any region of the world, is extremely food-friendly with appetizers, salads to seafood dishes. The reason why they work so well with foods is because of their high acidity and clean flavors. Sancerre, for example, which is typically very herbaceous and grassy, pairs well with dishes with leafy herbs such as parsley, basil or even cilantro. It will work with any white meat from fish to chicken or pork. As far as cheeses, it is ideal with any mildly acidic cheese such as chevre, feta from Greece, pecorino from Italy and even extra-sharp cheddar.

So, even though this wine gets around the world, it manages to maintain a characteristic clean and crisp character, making for a pleasant summer sipper and an ideal food-pairing wine. OM